Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
